At Wrigley Field, online food ordering clashes with stubborn ballpark conventions and traditions. ‘Beer, click here!’ is not the same.

CHICAGO — The giant pump of ketchup is gone. The dispenser of shaved onions — a sticky, rotary miracle of 20th century technology — has been dispatched to some graveyard of pre-COVID-19 ballpark concessions. And those who shout “beer, here!” for a living have been reduced to frowning at a screen instead of laughing straight into the glassy eyes of an ebullient, thirsty fan as they navigate aisles, stairs and foul balls. On opening day at Wrigley Field, COVID-19-friendly, new mobile ordering technology squared off against the great ballpark food-and-drink traditions and, for the most part, stru…

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